Fully plant-based eatery Mallow comes from the team behind Mildred’s. Though at the forefront of veggie dining, Mildred’s has always felt a bit run-of-the-mill. The sort of world food that you might cook at home. Mallow, on the other hand, feels far more creative and special, with an equally varied menu but thoughtfully done. Though vegan, Mallow is quietly so: you don’t feel like you’re missing out on anything here.
Mallow first opened up shop in what could be described as their natural environment – the heart of Borough Market – where they indeed source much of the ingredients used. Describing itself as “an extension of the market”, seasonal fruit and vegetables are stars of the show here. Mallow have now set foot in a spot very convenient to me at present: that strangely evolving quarter of Canary Wharf. Whilst banks and law firms are fleeing the Wharf, developers are seeking to develop a more residential feel – above ground and under – to this corporate quarter. Query how far that ambition can be fulfilled but Mallow is a strong asset to have under their books.
Mallow aims to offer “a modern, relaxed dining style and atmosphere”. The décor – even in Wood Wharf – manages to fulfil that ambition. The restaurant feels warm, relaxed and inviting – ideal for a long (likely business) lunch or an evening aperitif. Fully decked out with plants, it’s bright, light, glass-fronted and youthful – the Wharf at its best.
In keeping with so many top chefs today, sustainability, seasonality, provenance and limiting waste is key to its ethos. Whilst the menu takes inspiration from around the world – drawing inspiration from corners of every continent – through innovative cooking techniques touches of flair are added to every plate, small and large. Each dish, drizzle and dipping sauce sounds tempting: sweetcorn ribs and tapenade butter, pumpkin blossom and mango pepper sauce. Indeed, most of the ingredients are made on site, from the labneh and garden pickles, to jams, spice blends and vegan feta.
From the small plates, my companion and I shared shiitake miso croquettes, pickled shimeji, shiso, yuzu mayonnaise (£9). These are everything you’d hope for: melt-in-the-mouth oozy, singing with umami notes and full of flavour. A bite of these gets the appetite going very well.
We also shared the padron peppers with za’atar, whipped tahini and sour cherry molasses (£8.5). These feel like an updgraded version of the usual Spanish tapas bar variation. Whilst the latter tend to be seasoned with predictable sea salt and lemon, Mallow’s take brings a Middle Eastern twist that’s bursting with flavours and accompanied by an utterly addictive creamy sweet tahini. A dip to make the most of (and finish by the spoon). A welcome ingenuity to the usual padron pepper.
For mains, I went for the decadent-sounding whipped feta garden plate, cacao quinoa soil, kalamata cracker, olive caviar (£16). This is the best take on what our waiter described as the menu’s “healthier option”. Though nutritious and certainly very green, it didn’t sacrifice on taste. The whipped feta – what chefs seem to be doing with most cheeses and dips at the moment – was smooth, salty and moreish, an ideal counterpart to the greens alongside. A very nice alternative to the menu’s heartier mains.
On the drinks side, if you’re a fan of kombucha not to miss is the super refreshing agua de madre apple & elderflower live brew kefir water (£8). Made fresh on site, it was sour to the point of perfection and served generously in a wine glass. Uplifting (and gut detoxing) on all levels.
The aim here is to please everyone and unless you’re particularly intolerant, a meal at Mallow should leave with a smile. Also serving breakfasts and brunches, I’m keen to return at the weekend – more likely in Borough. Watch this space.
Mallow, 1 Cathedral St, London SE1 9DE
Website: mallowlondon.com
Rating: ****
Yumtini 