For me, Greek food screams Spring / Summer. So Notting Hill’s Suzi Tros – which conjures up all the vibes of the Mediterranean, visually and culinary – was a natural choice for small plates over Easter weekend’s very blue skies and the final arrival of Spring. For years, you could count the number of genuinely … Continue reading Suzi Tros
Much talked about chef, restauranteur and author Cynthia Shanmugalingam has now opened her debut restaurant Rambutan in Borough Market. This in itself is something to celebrate: Cynthia is the first Sri Lankan Tamil woman to open a restaurant in central London – better still, within the City’s oldest, renowned food market. Its setting is a … Continue reading Rambutan
A review of another “Levantine” restaurant here and it’s no surprise. Often labelled as the “Ottolenghi effect”, London’s love affair with Middle Eastern food has transformed our relationship with vegetables. Boiling to eternity is thankfully out; (whole) roasting, charring and grilling has come to the forefront – not to mention dips, spices, tahini and all … Continue reading Bubala, Soho
We’ve come to define Middle Eastern – or Levantine – cooking in a generic way. Encompassing a range of regions, the term overlooks the region’s diversity. Franco-Palestinian chef Fadi Kattan proudly rejects this and is much more specific. Describing the food at his renowned restaurant in Bethlehem – Fawda, Arabic for “chaos” – as “modern … Continue reading Akub
“Farang” translates as “foreigner”. Though perhaps consciously branding as a foreign interpretation of Thai cuisine, a taste of the food here certainy feels authentic – whatever that means. Farang is home to head chef Seb Holmes. Originally opened in February 2017, Farang set up as a pop-up that planned to be around for at least … Continue reading Farang
Located in the metaverse-like Bloomberg Arcade, Koya is undoubtedly the top choice for udon in the Square Mile. Designed by Foster & Partner, the Arcade has become something of a food oasis – home to Lina Stores, Brigadiers, Caravan and Ekte. And Koya is no exception to that list. Whilst most Japanese noodle bars in … Continue reading Koya City
Affectionately translated as “Darling” in Hebrew (slang), Kapara is Bala Baya’s Tel-Aviv-inspired incarnation in Soho’s hidden and lovely James Court. Led by ex-Ottolenghian chef Eran Tibi, Kapara is influenced by the hedonistic attitude of modern Tel-Aviv, with elements of LA / Ibiza / Miami added to the mix. With its spacious layout, the restaurant’s “anything … Continue reading Kapara
Tucked away off the King’s Road on lovely Park Walk, Huo has a distinct LA vibe, with a focus on pan-Asian “clean” food. It helps that Huo’s location is aptly known as “Chelsea Beach”, a descriptor they live up to very well. It might be just off King’s / Fulham Road, but sitting at a … Continue reading HUŎ
Whereas so many restaurants in London seem to be honing in on cuisine from a particular region in a search for “authenticity”, Pahli Hill in Fitzrovia celebrates the best dishes from across the Indian sub-continent. In doing so, the kitchen is true to the restaurant’s name. Named after one of the oldest and most affluent … Continue reading Pahli Hill
When Honey & Co Warren Street announced it was closing, there was - understandably - much discontent from fans. But fears remained at bay as plans were quickly put in place to reopen a new spot in Bloomsbury, on the lovely Lamb’s Conduit Street specifically. Sitting directly opposite the marvellous Noble Rot – a name … Continue reading Honey & Co Bloomsbury
Located in the 18th-century house sitting on Vauxhall Bridge roundabout, Brunswick House is home to chef-patron Jason Boxer. A historic setting for a chef of high pedigree: Boxer is part of that generation of cooks who was nurtured in the comforting shadow of Fergus Henderson of St John and his wife, Margot. From this we … Continue reading Brunswick House
Once known as ‘Little Italy’ given its community of Italian migrants, Clerkenwell was the perfect place for The Clove Club Restaurant Group to open its ambitious trattoria, Luca. The opening of this very-Italian, slightly-British restaurant at the beginning of 2017 was much anticipated and those highs were met with conviction. The setting plays no small … Continue reading Luca
“More vegetables, more nutrition, less waste”. So the moto goes of Slow Burn, a vegetable-focused pop-up in Walthamstow. Founded by Head Chef Chavdar Todorov, their goal is to champion vegetables, moving meat to the side. With sustainability at the core of their kitchen philosophy, most dishes are veggie and vegan friendly, using fresh and seasonal … Continue reading Slow Burn
Securing a reservation at Fatt Pundit seems to be a close to impossible task. The original Soho location of this Indo-Chinese restaurant has an almost cult-like following. Serving a distinct cuisine that can only be found in a clutch of London restaurants, the restaurant champions “Indo-Chinese” cuisines that celebrate the melting pot of cultures within … Continue reading Fatt Pundit
Located on the top floor of the iconic Treehouse Hotel on Langham Place, Madera pairs bold flavours with organic ingredients against the backdrop of 360-degrees skyline views. The little sister to LA-based Toca Madera, concept here remains pretty much the same: to provide ‘an elevated, modern, and organic take on traditional Mexican cuisine‘. Except this … Continue reading Madera at The Treehouse
Though I’m not usually one to choose a vegan restaurant, Tendrill doesn’t qualify as that exactly – it self-describes as a “(mostly) vegan kitchen”. I’m also not one to choose a restaurant that charges £80 for an cancelled reservation. But the only compensation offered on my follow-up plea to founder and chef, Rishim Sachdeva, was … Continue reading Tendrill
Marylebone High Street’s Taka is the second London opening by brother and sister team Andrey and Anastasia Datsenko, who were born and grew up in Tokyo. Taka Mayfair (now closed) opened in 2017 and this larger site in Marylebone takes over the spot of the popular Providores. Marylebone High Street has become something of a … Continue reading Taka
As the name suggests, Bon Vino is a spot to go to for wine. Italian wine to be specific. Set up by an Italian by the name of Alessandro, as the website reveals “wine and the making of it is in his blood”. Born and raised in Frosinone, around 60km outside of Rome, his first … Continue reading Bon Vino
As the name betells, Unwined is a little wine bar in Waterloo that has the kind of by-the-glass wine list that you should treat as a Friday night to-do list. Located on Lower Marsh Street, a cute parade packed with bookshops and cafés just behind Waterloo station, it’s casual yet cosy. Rather frustratingly, Unwined is … Continue reading Unwined (Waterloo)
Capturing the souls of cities across the world (Tel Aviv, Paris, New York, Melbourne, Singapore, Boston), cult-classic Miznon has landed on Soho’s buzzy Broadwick Street. Founded by celebrity chef Eyal Shani and renowned for its fresh, vibrant Israeli bites – notably fluffy pitta – this smash-hit restaurant celebrates the flavours of the Mediterranean. And it … Continue reading Miznon
Gold is an uber-cool Notting Hill restaurant sitting beneath a pavement-to-roof moody mural of two painted eyes watching out onto Portobello Road’s pretty parade of shops. The mural is the work of Portuguese street artist Vhils, and it’s literally called ‘Eye Contact’. And it seems Gold is a spot worth having your eyes wide open. … Continue reading Gold
Ducksoup is one of those properly romantic “low-key” Soho restaurant / wine bar hybrids. With just a few small tables along the wall and a tightly knit bar that acts as a dining counter, it’s difficult to get a reservation but worth the wait. Despite being in buzzy Soho, Ducksoup feels relaxed and intimate, lit … Continue reading Ducksoup
From the talented team behind the acclaimed Barbary (part of the esteemed Palomar group) comes the The Barbary Next Door, which – as its name gives away – sits besides The Barbary in Covent Garden’s tucked away treasure Neal’s Yard. Like it’s sister, The Barbary Next Door has proven to be a triumphant addition to … Continue reading The Barbary Next Door
Yauatcha City – which opened back in May 2015 – is a fancy standout amongst the eating holes in the City’s popular (for the suits) Broadgate Circle, EC2’s shiny office/retail/eating/drinking district. Though more corporate, the City version of Yauatcha isn’t too far removed from the Soho original – think upmarket, pretty Cantonese dishes, served in … Continue reading Yauatcha City
Tucked away within a hidden square of Vauxhall, Italo had been on My List for years, having remotely lusted over its daily-changing menu on Instagram for months, yet somehow failing to plan a visit despite not living far from the area. This stylish coffee shop and deli sits on the corner of Bonnington Square and … Continue reading Italo
A new-ish Levantine spot from the team behind Berber & Q comes Carmel in Queen’s Park, an unlikely neighbourhood somewhere in-between Maida Vale and Kilburn. Tucked around the corner from Queen’s Park station, Lonsdale Road is one of those alluring, soulful little discoveries that London can somehow still keep under wraps: a wide cobbled mews, … Continue reading Carmel
For understated seasonal food in an 80s art-focused setting, head to Toklas, the newish restaurant from founders of the Frieze festival, Amanda Sharp and Mathew Slotover. Toklas takes its name from Alice Toklas, the name behind the famous 1954 cookbook, The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, famed for including the first modern recipe for cannabis brownies. … Continue reading Toklas
Vegan, or “plant-based”, restaurants have been hitting the next level of late. No longer simply branded as a vegan restaurant per se, they're becoming focused on and known for the style of the food first. Borough Market’s Mallow is receiving applause, as is Islington’s Tofu Vegan. From the people behind the much-admired (and non-vegan) Xi’an … Continue reading Tofu Vegan
Mexicans in London have proudly declared Taqueria to be the best Mexican restaurant in the capital. Though I’m yet to visit Mexico (a WIP), I’m not surprised. This bustling Notting Hill (or really, Westbourne Grove) establishment offers excellent comida corrida, which isn't easy to find in London. Taquería started life as the Cool Chile … Continue reading Taqueria
An offshoot to Marylebone’s Pachamama, on which see my review here, Chicama brings Peruvian food to an unassuming corner of Chelsea. Though perched on an unexciting corner of the Kings Road (the Imperial Wharf end), it’s a spot worth seeking out. Peruvian food has rightly enjoyed an explosion in popularity in London of late, with … Continue reading Chicama
Italian food, American style – or more specifically, LA-style. Though I’m one usually drawn to “authentic” (whatever that means) Italian Italian, the pioneer behind Pizzeria Mozza is the acclaimed (Chef’s Table featuring) Nancy Silverton. She’s a big deal. It was her pioneering bakery (La Brea Bakery in LA) that popularised sourdough back in the 1990s. … Continue reading Pizzeria Mozza
Lina Stores have recently nabbed a spot convenient to any City worker in the ever-so-cool Bloomberg Arcade. Filling the site of what was previously Andrew Wong’s excellent Kym’s, a pandemic casualty, Lina had big shoes to fill. Though given their legendary name, their choice as second act was always a solid one. In case you … Continue reading Lina Stores
Finally, London seems to have got some solid options for tacos, where all that had existed before were one or two standouts or sub-optimal restaurant chains. While LA, or even New York, still has nothing to fear by way of competition, London’s newcomers have brought a nuanced look at what Mexican food means today and … Continue reading Tacos Padre
Peruvian restaurant, natural wine bar, pop-up – all tucked away in a moody basement. Very Hoxton Hotel – specifically the Holborn branch. Rondo La Cave is a new a wine bar and testing ground (or to use the Hotel's words, “incubator”) for up-and-coming chefs to experiment with their ideas. The first and current impressive residency … Continue reading Rondo La Cave
From the team behind Counter Culture (next to the Dairy) in Clapham, comes Alter, a pan-Asian vegan restaurant that’s taken residency in Aldgate's stylish Leman Locke “aparthotel”. Housing self-contained studios and apartments in a boutique hotel-like setting, Leman Locke is from the same company as Bermonds Locke where The Dairy is - so it seems … Continue reading Alter
Sri Lankan food seems to be enjoying a resurgence in London at the moment. Following the launch of Hoppers and Kolamba (on which see my reviews here and here), the most recent addition to this eclectic party is contemporary Sri Lankan restaurant Paradise. I say eclectic as all look to celebrate the country’s truly vibrant … Continue reading Paradise
Long-on my List has been Mediterranean Cinder. This Belsize Park restaurant had largely drawn me in thanks to its Josper cooking. As their website exclaims, they’re “passionate about cooking over fire”, with “best quality ingredient…kissed by flames”. Heavy romance. As a lover of smokey flavours, I had cloud-high expectations – think unadulterated, bold and barbecued … Continue reading Cinder
The best restaurants have a story behind them and Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is all about the narrative. And a gripping one it is. Imad Alarnab was once (and continues to be!) a successful chef and restaurateur but in Damascus, where he ran three restaurants alongside cafés and juice bars. All that was destroyed in just … Continue reading Imad’s Syrian Kitchen
By a stroke of luck, Som Saa had Saturday night availability for two, at a reasonable hour – 7.45pm – just two days before booking. I say “luck” as Som Saa is a Thai restaurant in demand. What started life as a pop-up in Climpson Arch’s and at the Begging Bowl in Peckham, it now … Continue reading Som Saa
As an admirer of the beautiful 26 Grains, owner Alex Hely-Hutchinson’s Borough venture, Stoney Street – eponymous with its location – had long been on my List. Though both are famed for haute (or oat – pun intended) porridge, bircher bowls, pastries and foccacias, by night – on Wednesdays through to Saturdays – Stoney Street … Continue reading Stoney Street
From the team behind Camberwell Arms and Frank’s Café arrives Mike’s, bringing Roman- (or London- – more on that later) -style pizza to Peckham, specifically Copeland Park. Found in a former grain storage space, like previous tenants Forza Win they’ve kept things totally stripped-down and simple inside. Covid-proof, seating is available both inside, if you’re … Continue reading Mike’s
Enjoying lunch in a museum café – what’s more, on a weekday – feels like a double treat post-lockdown. As the last year has shown, what seem like standard activities for a London staycation should no longer be taken for granted. The Garden Museum – a somewhat under-the-radar yet iconic spot in Lambeth – feels … Continue reading Garden Museum Café
A rooftop dinner seems absolutely called for at the moment to welcome in the easing of lockdown, post-Covid life and to support the hospitality industry. Queue Maya: a Mexican restaurant on the 7th-floor rooftop space of the Hoxton Hotel’s Shoreditch outpost. Recently opened in collaboration with Soho House, the restaurant is a travelling story: it … Continue reading Maya
Scully’s, chef Ramuel Scully’s debut restaurant, is tucked behind Piccadilly in St James’s Market, in one of those glossy new developments. But don’t let its corporate-looking exterior put you off. Scully himself is a chef who is a citizen of everywhere. Born in Malaysia to a mother of Chinese and Indian heritage and an Irish-Balinese … Continue reading Scully’s
You might discount Elliot’s given its location on the fringes of the (pre-Covid) touristy Borough Market. But this seasonal and small-plates led restaurant has been one of the best in the market for a while now, not least over the last few months when it seems to have had a renaissance and a surge of … Continue reading Elliot’s
Rochelle Canteen comes with a stellar reputation. Described as a “hidden sanctuary” and “magic” inside a “walled kingdom” – you do have to be buzzed in to be able to enter – it now has a cult following. Post-lockdown, even securing a booking is a challenge, with a month-long lead time. Set up by St … Continue reading Rochelle Canteen
Following the Camberwell original and its Tooting sibling, wine bar/restaurant Good Neighbour have opened a third site on what has become a foodie hotspot, Peckham Rye. Taking the site of what was formerly the lovely Pedler who are relocating eastwards, it has big boots to fill. But from my visit on its opening evening, Good … Continue reading Good Neighbour
For my first indoor dining treat post-lockdown, back to Mayfair but this time just off Bond Street. Department store Fenwick has launched a new “wellness” concept space in their basement – the buzzword of the day (or the past year or so it seems) – featuring a sustainable food market, beauty and of course activewear … Continue reading 123V
Dinner in Mayfair feels like an aptly luxurious postcode to welcome in the gradual easing out of lockdown and the arrival of Spring/Summer 2021. Though securing an al fresco booking in London right now is close to impossible – think a month-long lead in time, on top of limited choice and finding spots with heated … Continue reading Fallow
A collaboration between designer Tom Dixon and chef/entrepreneur Assaf Granit, who in London co-owns (with siblings Zoë and Layo Paskin) The Palomar and one of my favourite haunts, The Barbary, Coal Office’s roots are of critical acclaim. In Jerusalem, he’s behind the equally successful hotspots Machneyuda and Yudale. Having visited the former (with some difficulty … Continue reading Coal Office
Yumtini 