From LA chef Julian Denis comes Facing Heaven, a successor to Hackney-based vegan Chinese Mao Chow. Tucked on a corner around the back of Mare Street, it’s an unassuming, nameless shopfront. Once inside, though, low key it is not. With black-and-white chequerboard flooring and low neon lights reflecting off every surface, this small room serves … Continue reading Facing Heaven
Back to East London again for hip eatery, Lardo. Tucked between London Fields and Hackney Central, besides cult bakery and pasta pop-up Pophams, this disco-balled, industrial Italian is the Italian love-child of former Bistrotheque manager Eliza Flanagan. There are a lot of restaurants a bit like Lardo: think pizza, pasta, short wine list, a smattering … Continue reading Lardo
Poon’s Wontoneria is currently operating as a pop-up on Charlotte Street. Despite being a relative newcomer to the London food scene, it boasts a long and proud history. It’s the kind of tale that might feature on a Netflix documentary. No stranger to the London food scene, legendary Bill and Cecilia Poon introduced London to … Continue reading Poon’s Wontoneria
For modern Malaysian flavours with a Chinese influence, full of life, colour and fragrance, a trip (or trek) to Mambow (no. 4) in Clapton is well worth it. Founder Abby Lee honed her skills spending two years in Puglia. Mambow (no. 1) initially launched as a bowl food pop-up in Commercial Street in 2020. Due … Continue reading Mambow
With three branches – in Stockwell, Haggerston and Bethnal Green – Arepa & Co is a Venezuelan arepera serving traditional food in a contemporary and very colourful environment. Hidden away within the charming De Beauvoir Village, the Haggerston outpost overlooks the canal. Though we visited for a Sunday dinner, I’d definitely return for daytime brunch … Continue reading Arepa & Co
Restaurants are all about staging, and Milk Beach ticks all the boxes on that front. Its second branch, after the highly popular Queen’s Park restaurant that hit north-west London in 2018 and quickly became known for its brunches, this Soho outpost more of the same formula. Think a breezy flutter through Mediterranean and south-east Asian … Continue reading Milk Beach
With a name that translates as ‘curry over rice’, Plaza Khao Gaeng is a Southern Thai restaurant and sister restaurant to chef-owner Luke Farrell’s Speedboat Bar (on which, see my review here). Awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand in March 2023 the Plaza seeks to recreate the flavours of the region’s neighbourhood khao gaengs or local … Continue reading Plaza Khao Gaeng
Founded in 2019 by three old friends and long-time South East London residents – Luke, Ben and Helen – Peckham Cellars feels like a place set up by locals for locals – somewhere that should be kept quiet. With a relaxed vibe, it’s the kind of wine bar-come-bistro that you want to keep hidden so … Continue reading Peckham Cellars
You might think Thai restaurant Supawan is a kind of layover stop-off point: perfect for a quick bite to / fro King’s Cross St. Pancras. From the outside, Supawan looks unassuming: the sort an unknowing traveller might stumble into fresh off the train, when hunting for something to eat. Supawan doesn’t jump out at you … Continue reading Supawan
From the founder of Fitzrovia's Akoko comes Akara, another West African restaurant this time in Borough (Yards). Whilst the Fitrovia branch is pitched at the more elevated level, its (equally smart) offshoot blends “the crispy, fluffy attributes of Nigerian Akara Osu with the flavour-packed delights of Brazilian Acaraje ”, i.e., each country’s spin on the … Continue reading Akara
From the team behind Som Saa in Spitalfields – what must be one of London’s best Thai restaurants, on which see my review here – comes Kolae. Named after a Southern Thai cooking technique that involves coating ingredients in a curry-like coconut marinade and then grilling over open flames, Kolae puts fiery flavours to the … Continue reading Kolae
A lively restaurant with a pool table in Chinatown, Speedboat Bar is the kind of restaurant that wants everyone to have a good time. Its crowd-pleasing Thai food will certainly help with that. Speedboar Bar comes from the Sethi brothers’ JKS Restaurants, the umbrella behind an impressive spread of ventures, from Mayfair’s Gymkhana and Iranian … Continue reading Speedboat Bar
Having started out as a series of pop-ups, with spells at Dinerama, Hawker House, KERB at Camden Market, and Seven Dials Market, vegan street food eatery Club Mexicana enjoyed a stint at London’s first vegan pub, The Spread Eagle. Having tested the water, it then opened up a permanent base, first in Kingly Court and … Continue reading Club Mexicana
Located in that glossy little corner of St James’s, Toba is an Indonesian restaurant by Pino Edward Sinaga. It’s taken over the spot of Michelin-starred West African restaurant Ikoyi. It's a strange part of town, St James’s. Essentially a lesser-known southern extension of Mayfair, it's barely a half mile square and yet contains a high … Continue reading Toba
Andrew Clarke and Daniel Watkins describe their live-fire restaurant in London’s Dalston as “More than just a restaurant.” It’s a “cult”. After a series of successful pop-ups, together they’ve opened their first permanent site in a rough old yard at 40FT Brewery. A large custom-made grill and smoker stand proudly in the covered yard. Bringing … Continue reading Acme Fire Cult
Fully plant-based eatery Mallow comes from the team behind Mildred’s. Though at the forefront of veggie dining, Mildred’s has always felt a bit run-of-the-mill. The sort of world food that you might cook at home. Mallow, on the other hand, feels far more creative and special, with an equally varied menu but thoughtfully done. Though … Continue reading Mallow
Taking over the space of what was once Passo (on which, see my review here), Lilienblum has landed in the somewhat transitory space of the Old Street roundabout. Another eatery from world renowned celebrity chef Eyal Shani, Lilienblum is the street in Tel Aviv where you’ll find one of his most celebrated restaurants, Hasalon. Like … Continue reading Lilienblum
The much anticipated debut restaurant of Mexican chef Adriana Cavita had been on My List for some time. A June birthday or two seemed like the ideal opportunity to tick off. Cavita, the person, is a well-known talent: previously trained at El Bulli, she has a degree in gastronomy and has explored her country’s under-appreciated … Continue reading Cavita
For me, Greek food screams Spring / Summer. So Notting Hill’s Suzi Tros – which conjures up all the vibes of the Mediterranean, visually and culinary – was a natural choice for small plates over Easter weekend’s very blue skies and the final arrival of Spring. For years, you could count the number of genuinely … Continue reading Suzi Tros
Much talked about chef, restauranteur and author Cynthia Shanmugalingam has now opened her debut restaurant Rambutan in Borough Market. This in itself is something to celebrate: Cynthia is the first Sri Lankan Tamil woman to open a restaurant in central London – better still, within the City’s oldest, renowned food market. Its setting is a … Continue reading Rambutan
A review of another “Levantine” restaurant here and it’s no surprise. Often labelled as the “Ottolenghi effect”, London’s love affair with Middle Eastern food has transformed our relationship with vegetables. Boiling to eternity is thankfully out; (whole) roasting, charring and grilling has come to the forefront – not to mention dips, spices, tahini and all … Continue reading Bubala, Soho
We’ve come to define Middle Eastern – or Levantine – cooking in a generic way. Encompassing a range of regions, the term overlooks the region’s diversity. Franco-Palestinian chef Fadi Kattan proudly rejects this and is much more specific. Describing the food at his renowned restaurant in Bethlehem – Fawda, Arabic for “chaos” – as “modern … Continue reading Akub
“Farang” translates as “foreigner”. Though perhaps consciously branding as a foreign interpretation of Thai cuisine, a taste of the food here certainy feels authentic – whatever that means. Farang is home to head chef Seb Holmes. Originally opened in February 2017, Farang set up as a pop-up that planned to be around for at least … Continue reading Farang
Located in the metaverse-like Bloomberg Arcade, Koya is undoubtedly the top choice for udon in the Square Mile. Designed by Foster & Partner, the Arcade has become something of a food oasis – home to Lina Stores, Brigadiers, Caravan and Ekte. And Koya is no exception to that list. Whilst most Japanese noodle bars in … Continue reading Koya City
Affectionately translated as “Darling” in Hebrew (slang), Kapara is Bala Baya’s Tel-Aviv-inspired incarnation in Soho’s hidden and lovely James Court. Led by ex-Ottolenghian chef Eran Tibi, Kapara is influenced by the hedonistic attitude of modern Tel-Aviv, with elements of LA / Ibiza / Miami added to the mix. With its spacious layout, the restaurant’s “anything … Continue reading Kapara
Tucked away off the King’s Road on lovely Park Walk, Huo has a distinct LA vibe, with a focus on pan-Asian “clean” food. It helps that Huo’s location is aptly known as “Chelsea Beach”, a descriptor they live up to very well. It might be just off King’s / Fulham Road, but sitting at a … Continue reading HUŎ
Whereas so many restaurants in London seem to be honing in on cuisine from a particular region in a search for “authenticity”, Pahli Hill in Fitzrovia celebrates the best dishes from across the Indian sub-continent. In doing so, the kitchen is true to the restaurant’s name. Named after one of the oldest and most affluent … Continue reading Pahli Hill
When Honey & Co Warren Street announced it was closing, there was - understandably - much discontent from fans. But fears remained at bay as plans were quickly put in place to reopen a new spot in Bloomsbury, on the lovely Lamb’s Conduit Street specifically. Sitting directly opposite the marvellous Noble Rot – a name … Continue reading Honey & Co Bloomsbury
Located in the 18th-century house sitting on Vauxhall Bridge roundabout, Brunswick House is home to chef-patron Jason Boxer. A historic setting for a chef of high pedigree: Boxer is part of that generation of cooks who was nurtured in the comforting shadow of Fergus Henderson of St John and his wife, Margot. From this we … Continue reading Brunswick House
Once known as ‘Little Italy’ given its community of Italian migrants, Clerkenwell was the perfect place for The Clove Club Restaurant Group to open its ambitious trattoria, Luca. The opening of this very-Italian, slightly-British restaurant at the beginning of 2017 was much anticipated and those highs were met with conviction. The setting plays no small … Continue reading Luca
“More vegetables, more nutrition, less waste”. So the moto goes of Slow Burn, a vegetable-focused pop-up in Walthamstow. Founded by Head Chef Chavdar Todorov, their goal is to champion vegetables, moving meat to the side. With sustainability at the core of their kitchen philosophy, most dishes are veggie and vegan friendly, using fresh and seasonal … Continue reading Slow Burn
Securing a reservation at Fatt Pundit seems to be a close to impossible task. The original Soho location of this Indo-Chinese restaurant has an almost cult-like following. Serving a distinct cuisine that can only be found in a clutch of London restaurants, the restaurant champions “Indo-Chinese” cuisines that celebrate the melting pot of cultures within … Continue reading Fatt Pundit
Located on the top floor of the iconic Treehouse Hotel on Langham Place, Madera pairs bold flavours with organic ingredients against the backdrop of 360-degrees skyline views. The little sister to LA-based Toca Madera, concept here remains pretty much the same: to provide ‘an elevated, modern, and organic take on traditional Mexican cuisine‘. Except this … Continue reading Madera at The Treehouse
Though I’m not usually one to choose a vegan restaurant, Tendrill doesn’t qualify as that exactly – it self-describes as a “(mostly) vegan kitchen”. I’m also not one to choose a restaurant that charges £80 for an cancelled reservation. But the only compensation offered on my follow-up plea to founder and chef, Rishim Sachdeva, was … Continue reading Tendrill
Marylebone High Street’s Taka is the second London opening by brother and sister team Andrey and Anastasia Datsenko, who were born and grew up in Tokyo. Taka Mayfair (now closed) opened in 2017 and this larger site in Marylebone takes over the spot of the popular Providores. Marylebone High Street has become something of a … Continue reading Taka
As the name suggests, Bon Vino is a spot to go to for wine. Italian wine to be specific. Set up by an Italian by the name of Alessandro, as the website reveals “wine and the making of it is in his blood”. Born and raised in Frosinone, around 60km outside of Rome, his first … Continue reading Bon Vino
As the name betells, Unwined is a little wine bar in Waterloo that has the kind of by-the-glass wine list that you should treat as a Friday night to-do list. Located on Lower Marsh Street, a cute parade packed with bookshops and cafés just behind Waterloo station, it’s casual yet cosy. Rather frustratingly, Unwined is … Continue reading Unwined (Waterloo)
Capturing the souls of cities across the world (Tel Aviv, Paris, New York, Melbourne, Singapore, Boston), cult-classic Miznon has landed on Soho’s buzzy Broadwick Street. Founded by celebrity chef Eyal Shani and renowned for its fresh, vibrant Israeli bites – notably fluffy pitta – this smash-hit restaurant celebrates the flavours of the Mediterranean. And it … Continue reading Miznon
Gold is an uber-cool Notting Hill restaurant sitting beneath a pavement-to-roof moody mural of two painted eyes watching out onto Portobello Road’s pretty parade of shops. The mural is the work of Portuguese street artist Vhils, and it’s literally called ‘Eye Contact’. And it seems Gold is a spot worth having your eyes wide open. … Continue reading Gold
Ducksoup is one of those properly romantic “low-key” Soho restaurant / wine bar hybrids. With just a few small tables along the wall and a tightly knit bar that acts as a dining counter, it’s difficult to get a reservation but worth the wait. Despite being in buzzy Soho, Ducksoup feels relaxed and intimate, lit … Continue reading Ducksoup
From the talented team behind the acclaimed Barbary (part of the esteemed Palomar group) comes the The Barbary Next Door, which – as its name gives away – sits besides The Barbary in Covent Garden’s tucked away treasure Neal’s Yard. Like it’s sister, The Barbary Next Door has proven to be a triumphant addition to … Continue reading The Barbary Next Door
Yauatcha City – which opened back in May 2015 – is a fancy standout amongst the eating holes in the City’s popular (for the suits) Broadgate Circle, EC2’s shiny office/retail/eating/drinking district. Though more corporate, the City version of Yauatcha isn’t too far removed from the Soho original – think upmarket, pretty Cantonese dishes, served in … Continue reading Yauatcha City
Tucked away within a hidden square of Vauxhall, Italo had been on My List for years, having remotely lusted over its daily-changing menu on Instagram for months, yet somehow failing to plan a visit despite not living far from the area. This stylish coffee shop and deli sits on the corner of Bonnington Square and … Continue reading Italo
A new-ish Levantine spot from the team behind Berber & Q comes Carmel in Queen’s Park, an unlikely neighbourhood somewhere in-between Maida Vale and Kilburn. Tucked around the corner from Queen’s Park station, Lonsdale Road is one of those alluring, soulful little discoveries that London can somehow still keep under wraps: a wide cobbled mews, … Continue reading Carmel
For understated seasonal food in an 80s art-focused setting, head to Toklas, the newish restaurant from founders of the Frieze festival, Amanda Sharp and Mathew Slotover. Toklas takes its name from Alice Toklas, the name behind the famous 1954 cookbook, The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, famed for including the first modern recipe for cannabis brownies. … Continue reading Toklas
Vegan, or “plant-based”, restaurants have been hitting the next level of late. No longer simply branded as a vegan restaurant per se, they're becoming focused on and known for the style of the food first. Borough Market’s Mallow is receiving applause, as is Islington’s Tofu Vegan. From the people behind the much-admired (and non-vegan) Xi’an … Continue reading Tofu Vegan
Mexicans in London have proudly declared Taqueria to be the best Mexican restaurant in the capital. Though I’m yet to visit Mexico (a WIP), I’m not surprised. This bustling Notting Hill (or really, Westbourne Grove) establishment offers excellent comida corrida, which isn't easy to find in London. Taquería started life as the Cool Chile … Continue reading Taqueria
An offshoot to Marylebone’s Pachamama, on which see my review here, Chicama brings Peruvian food to an unassuming corner of Chelsea. Though perched on an unexciting corner of the Kings Road (the Imperial Wharf end), it’s a spot worth seeking out. Peruvian food has rightly enjoyed an explosion in popularity in London of late, with … Continue reading Chicama
Italian food, American style – or more specifically, LA-style. Though I’m one usually drawn to “authentic” (whatever that means) Italian Italian, the pioneer behind Pizzeria Mozza is the acclaimed (Chef’s Table featuring) Nancy Silverton. She’s a big deal. It was her pioneering bakery (La Brea Bakery in LA) that popularised sourdough back in the 1990s. … Continue reading Pizzeria Mozza
Lina Stores have recently nabbed a spot convenient to any City worker in the ever-so-cool Bloomberg Arcade. Filling the site of what was previously Andrew Wong’s excellent Kym’s, a pandemic casualty, Lina had big shoes to fill. Though given their legendary name, their choice as second act was always a solid one. In case you … Continue reading Lina Stores
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