Sister to Amber, Ara has been set up by restauranteur Murat Kilic. Whilst Amber focuses on food from the “Middle East”, Ara has broader horizons with a menu influenced by Murat’s “love of travel and experimentation“. The result is Turkish food with Asian twists – think tahini mirin and umami dust. Indeed, this reflects Murat’s heritage. Originally from Turkey, where he spent considerable time learning cooking fundamentals from his grandfather, Kilic moved to London as a teenager with aspirations of becoming an electrical engineer. However, he was quickly drawn to the hospitality industry.
In keeping with its ethos of sustainability, Ara’s interior has been designed by Nina Woodcroft and features upholstery made with pineapple leather from pineapple farm discards, galvanised steel offcuts as light installations and table tops from recycled plastic. Even the bar uses kitchen by-products to create its signature cocktails. Similarly, the wine list, curated by general manager Wade Mundford, includes organic, biodynamic, and low-intervention wines. The space feels vast, though this means service can sometimes feel slow.
The menu draws inspiration from across the globe: though this sounds promising, it always risks turning into a muddled medley. To snack, we ordered Corn Ribs with umami dust (£8). Hitting the umami spot, these are a good snacks though could have done with a dip alongside or at least a saucy finish.
From the small plates, I had high hopes for Blackened Leeks (£12) which did feature a dip – muhammara – alongside herbs and confit walnuts. Though a visual delight and loaded with seasonable herbs, the accompanying dip was underseasoned, as were the leeks. Whilst charred, the leeks lacked that smokey finish and the inner layers were absent of flavour.
On the side, Burnt Onion Salad with sorrel, roasted peppers and rocket (£9) is definitely worth an order. This was the unexpected hit of the evening. Whilst I tend to avoid ordering a green salad when dining out, this was beautifully dressed, bursting with flavour and the onions had been thoroughly charred to offer that smokey flavour so missing from the leeks.
When it comes to Middle Eastern – or even global – food, Ara has high competition – think, the Barbary, Leydi and Bubala. This kind of food – like any, really – should be full of flavour, creativity and heart. Whilst the dishes at Ara are clearly aiming towards this, it feels like a WIP.
Ara, 1 New Drum St, London E1 7AY
Website: https://ararestaurant.co.uk/
Rating: **
Yumtini 