Andrew Clarke and Daniel Watkins describe their live-fire restaurant in London’s Dalston as “More than just a restaurant.” It’s a “cult”. After a series of successful pop-ups, together they’ve opened their first permanent site in a rough old yard at 40FT Brewery. A large custom-made grill and smoker stand proudly in the covered yard. Bringing new life to this Dalston car park, Acme Fire Cult sits alongside the legendary Dusty Knuckle Bakery – the wellspring for much of north London’s overly developed sourdough habit.
The adjacent brewery doesn’t just provide beers to go with the food. By-products from brewing, such as yeast and spent grains, are used to make ferments and sauces, including flavour enhancers which are added to the cocktails. No-waste cookery is at the heart of the ethos here.
Given the final re-emergence of summer mid-August, we sat out on the terrace in front of the live kitchen action. The vibe is buzzy and smokey, with the smell of the fire pit enveloping diners who become lightly dusted with ashes from the grill. In contrast, the atmosphere inside is intimate: the space is pared back and dark with industrial elements. Pickles and ferments line the shelves behind the bespoke bar, which seats for drinks and snacks.
Though live fire cookery is usually associated with hunks of meat, the menu here is impressively vegetable led – part of a self-declared determination to get away from “dude food” culture around fire and smoke. Amazingly it’s also vegan-friendly, with an incredible range of vegan butters used. As per its blurb, the dishes take inspiration from around the world, with a thrilling use of spices and chillis.
At the top of our order was their signature Coal Roast Leeks, Pistachio Romesco (£10). This small plate is a staple on the menu for a reason. Leeks are grilled to the point of surrender, when they are sweet and soft. They are then served at room temperature with their own version of romesco sauce, in which ground almonds have been substituted by ground pistachios. It’s a study in verdant shades of green. There’s a welcome acidity to the grainy romesco, which is creamy and luxuriously green from the pistachio finish.
Another standout dish is the Grilled Culver Corn, Aslam’s Butter, Guindilla Peppers (£11). The sweetest corn on the cobs are enlivened with zingy pink pickled onions, seasoned with all the spices (curry leaves and jalapenos) and finished wtih fresh herbs (mint and coriander). Probably all the more enjoyed given eaten by the hand.
Another seasonal must is Tomatoes, Green Goddess and Purple Basil (£9). This dish is a total summer celebration: the sweetest tomatoes are used, elevated by fresh basil and a creamy green dressing made with a riot of summer herbs (dill, parsley, basil) and vegan crème fraiche. August on a plate.
For mains, we went for Trombetta Courgettes, Chickpeas, Vadouvan Butter and Curry Leaves (£19). These unusual courgettes reminded me of turnips. They’ve been smoked and are lubricated by a curry leave oil. The texture is probably not my favourite and the flavour still a little bitter, but the finish is impressive: Acme Fire Cult know how to finish dishes with drizzles and dips.
Alongside, we ordered the Little Gem, Sourdough Miso “Caeser” (£7). A fresh, crunchy and zingy little number, uplifted by the joyful umami quality of miso, this is utterly moreish.
Acme Fire Cult is performing a valiant public service in east London in offering veggies a strong barbecue treatment. I finally see what this ‘cult’ stuff is all about. After all, fire always excites. I’m very glad this restaurant is a permanent spot in London’s dining scene.
Acme Fire Cult, Abbot St, London E8 3DP
Website: https://www.acmefirecult.com/
Rating: *****
Yumtini 