Located in that glossy little corner of St James’s, Toba is an Indonesian restaurant by Pino Edward Sinaga. It’s taken over the spot of Michelin-starred West African restaurant Ikoyi. It’s a strange part of town, St James’s. Essentially a lesser-known southern extension of Mayfair, it’s barely a half mile square and yet contains a high density of fancy hotels (Duke’s, the Stafford, the Ritz), private members’ clubs and the odd royal palace. In that vein, dining at Toba is more chic than eating standing up in Camden Market: this is an elegant room in golds and fawns, with smartly dressed attentive staff, a smooth playlist, pastel-coloured walls adorned with traditional decor and warm dim lighting. It’s an intimate space that’s clearly catering for clientele of the area.
The name “Toba” is a nod to Lake Toba, a beautiful lake located in North Sumatra of Indonesia, which is also where Pino’s originally from. His menu here is inspired by his late mother’s recipes, showcasing a variety of regional classics including Javanese, Balinese, Betawi, Minang, etc. They’re all traditional Indonesian dishes but elevated with a modern twist.
It’s nice to see Indonesian food taking prime spotlight in London’s dining scene for a change. Thai and Malaysian tend to dominate but the Indonesian kitchen has something different to offer. Why the country’s food evades mainstream British attention is unclear, though. Perhaps it’s because its magic is in the devilishly good detail. All those things casually strewn: crisp shallots, peanut sauces, the zing of a makrut lime leaf, the frittered corn; the complex sweet, sour, chunky and silky sambals. It’s these small details that elevate the dishes at Toba wonderfully.
One of those standout dishes must be their signature Gulai daun singkong pete (£14), essentially a curry of tofu, tempeh and sator beans with just enough braised minced kale in a sweet, custard-yellow sauce of coconut milk. This must be the best thing on the menu, particularly with a side of fragrant yellow rice (£5). The sauce is lip-smackingly warm and earthy with just the right chilli chick. I could drink by the gallon. It was hearty and full of contrasting textures – spongy tofu, springy ribbed tempeh and chewy kale. The bowl was also surprisingly generously portioned but given how good the curry base is of the dish, it’s very easy to polish off.
St James’s Market may be lacking soul, but places like Toba and its neighbour Fallow and Scully’s will drag diners looking for dependably good and innovative food and something smarter than Soho establishments.
Toba, 1a St James’s Mkt, St. James’s, London SW1Y 4AH
Website: https://tobalondon.co.uk/menu/
Rating: *****
Yumtini 