Having started out as a series of pop-ups, with spells at Dinerama, Hawker House, KERB at Camden Market, and Seven Dials Market, vegan street food eatery Club Mexicana enjoyed a stint at London’s first vegan pub, The Spread Eagle. Having tested the water, it then opened up a permanent base, first in Kingly Court and then Spitafields. Given the huge popularity of those outfits, it’s unsurprising that its south London venture has now set up shop in Brixton Market.
When Club Mexicana started out, veganism was very much in its early days in London. Today, though, it’s everywhere. Though the ethos of Club Mexicana is not about showcasing fruit and veggies in all their glory. With a “no chickpea” (nor chia seed) philosophy, they’re instead placing fake meats and animal derivative versions of foods at the forefront of each of their dishes. They’re all about big flavour and no compromises: tacos, burritos and nachos lavished with punchy sauces, colourful toppings and melty vegan cheeze.
The hot pink Brixton spot is a bright 35-seat space, serving up their signature To-fish and jackfruit tacos and cocktails they’ve now built a reputation for. Full disclosure: having been a lifelong vegetarian and now vegan, seitan and other mock meats are not my go-tos. But I was pleasantly surprised with the well-branded and made To-fish & Chips Taco, which combines flakey-textured tofu with skinny fries, tartare sauce, gherkin slices and mushy pea salsa for a deliciously maritime flavour. Ingenious.
Another eye opener was the BBQ Short “Rib” Taco. The jackfruit” ribs were bold in flavour, their richly caramelised exteriors lovingly smothered in smokey sweet hickory BBQ sauce and blobs of thick, garlicky mayo. The tacos was also filled with all my favourite condiments that complete any tacos: slaw, pickled onions, pickled jalapenos…The only way to eat these tacos is by the hand.
We also ordered the mountainous pile of their Classic Nachos, which were covered with a vegan !queso! of mysterious origins that had been poured lava-like. Be warned: the portions here are generous, not least the nachos plate with all the condiments: pico de gallo, pickled onions and jalapenos, chipotle oil and chilli lime salt.
Though by no means authentic Mexican, there’s so much culinary wizardry on show here and there’s no better spot to witness than at the kitchen bar stools. Seitan, tofu and jackfruit are transfigured into replicas of various (ex) animals. This kind of modern vegan food would cause mental gymnastics for any meat-eater. Since eating is much more complex than merely taste and appetite. It is about memories, a sense of belonging and of finding comfort in the recognisable.
Describing their new Brixton taco bar, founder Meriel Armitage notes that it’s “a gorgeous spot and how I always imagined Club Mexicana… the perfect place to grab a few tacos, sink a few margaritas with some great tunes on.” Indeed tunes from the adjacent row in the Market were playing out loud and clearly on the Thursday evening of my visit. Though I still left craving a bit of cauliflower or a pop of sweetcorn to lighten up the umami flavour sensations of fake meat, Club Mexicana do what they do very well – I’m certainly persuaded on the wonderful versatility of tofu. Also not to miss is their Margarita with its wonderful chilli lime salt rim. It’s great to see Club Mexicana expanding and inviting more of London its ever-expanding, messy, wonderful taco party.
Club Mexicana, Brixton Village Market, 14B & C Market Row, London SW9 8LD
Website: https://www.clubmexicana.com/
Rating: ***
Yumtini 