From the founder of Fitzrovia’s Akoko comes Akara, another West African restaurant this time in Borough (Yards). Whilst the Fitrovia branch is pitched at the more elevated level, its (equally smart) offshoot blends “the crispy, fluffy attributes of Nigerian Akara Osu with the flavour-packed delights of Brazilian Acaraje ”, i.e., each country’s spin on the popular street-food fritter. Aji Akokomi’s approach seems apt for this spot: Borough’s market scene has always been dynamic in approach. And Akara’s arrival marks another asset to Borough Yard’s quickly developing restaurant scene, on which see my reviews of Kolamba and Kolae.
Though showcasing (and named after) the fritter, Akara’s interiors are smart and intimate helped by the warm grey palette, grey leather seating and industrial chic setting beneath the railway arches of Borough Yards. Seating 40, with a six-seater bar and a private dining room on the mezzanine for 12, the space feels very spacious thanks to the double height railway arches above. The most thrilling spot to nab is undoubtedly at the chef’s counter which has space for 6. Always the best seats, or stools, in the house, the area offers an unbeatable view of the heart of the action.
Though West African food is not typically seen as veggie-friendly, Akara celebrate the region’s twist on humble veggies in creative ways. To snack is the Rice Pancake with Black-eyed Bean Hummus (£5). Pairing hummus with a pancake is a first: prepared from an overnight fermented batter, these small bites are light, crisp though not big enough to make the most of this sumptuous hummus. The hummus itself is another first – prepared with black eyed beans, it’s doused in an irresistible chilli oil and seasoned with plenty of spices. Definitely worth finishing by the spoon.
Next up was the akara – the restaurant’s namesake. Referring to a crisp savoury fritter made from black eyed beans, a section of the menu is dedicated to these bites, each with different fillings. Popular on the streets in West Africa, the vegan take here is with BBQ Wild Mushrooms (£7). Whilst baked at Akoko, here the fritters are fried – as they should be! The akara represented more bites of pure joy: a crispy exterior but a cake-like spongy interior, these parcels of deliciousness – not dissimilar to a donught – are elevated by the seasonal, earthy and woody autumnal mushrooms they encase and the kitchen’s signature Sinhalese hot sauce to dip.
From the Plates, we went for the Charred Vegetable Pot with Senegalese Hot Sauce (£12). Having witnessed the chefs here blow torch the veggies here, this was a must. A combination of tenderstem broccoli, aubergine and romano peppers, these were laid above the kitchen’s signature hot sauce. My only complaint is that there weren’t more veggies to finish the sauce with.
Also on the pass was the Grilled Cabbage with Carrot Sauce and Herb Oil (£10) – another charred veggie that will definitely be on order on my return.
On the side, was the Baby Gem with Crispy Shallots and Spiced Peanuts (£6). With a miso-like quality, these leaves were fresh, umami and crunchy thanks to the topping – the West African take on the dukkah.
Desert wise on offer for vegans is the Coconut and Lime Sorbet (£5) which is perfectly refreshing, zesty and not overly sweet. The flavours in all the deserts are tempting: tamarind date cake with tonka bean cream particularly stands out.
The West African approach continues on the drinks list – cocktails and wine alike. On the former, the Cacao & Date Negroni stands out – I’ll definitely be returning to sample. In the mood for wine, though, our kind hostess brought us a glass of the unmissable London Manya Hibiscus Rose (£14) – a palm sparkling wine made from a West African grape in the UK: light, not sweet and infused with the floral notes of the fragrant hibiscus, it’s easy to understand why a bottle is £80! Each sip is worth savouring. It’s great to see West African food and drinks celebrated in all their glory at Akara. Though more casual than Akoko, this spot still feels like one to save for a special occasion, especially at the chef’s counter.
Akara, Arch 208, 18 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Website: https://www.akaralondon.co.uk/
Rating: *****
Yumtini 