Founded in 2019 by three old friends and long-time South East London residents – Luke, Ben and Helen – Peckham Cellars feels like a place set up by locals for locals – somewhere that should be kept quiet. With a relaxed vibe, it’s the kind of wine bar-come-bistro that you want to keep hidden so as to ensure it remains just that: off-the-radar. Indeed, looking after locals still seems to be very much in Peckham Cellars’ soul. A friendly cloud of chatter drifts down the street as you approach the place along Queen’s Road, even on a wintery night.
Of course, the idea of a ‘wine bar ft. small plates’ is nothing new, but to execute it in a way that radiates warmth and personality, is. Unlike many local joints, Peckham Cellars pairs a breezy atmosphere with excellent food and an impressive wine list, both worth making a journey along the Overground for. When we visited on a Saturday night there was a genuine vibe here, bustling with diners looking to enjoy very good wine and an assortment of (small) plates.
Like the decor (an elegant mix of bare wood and glass), the menu is one of understated excellence. There’s nothing flashy about the food here: these are classic but mighty small plates. The kitchen welcomingly adapted the veggie dishes on the menu (of which there are a few) to be vegan. Up first was the Satay and Cabbage Salad with smoked almonds (£8.50). This dish is exemplary of why cabbage shouldn’t be underestimated. As a great carrier of flavours, it’s wonderful smokey seasoning delivered maximum impact.
In general, all the flavours at Peckham Cellars are carefully propped against one other, great care having been taken to ensure that that Jenga tower of salt, acid, fat and sweet remains balanced throughout each dish. No more so than in the Tempura Purple Sprouting Broccoli with romesco (£13) – crispy parcels of joy with a sauce to match.
The Roasted leeks and mushroom with smoked almonds (£12) were another standout. I seem to be going through a leek phase currently – they’re one of my favourite winter vegetables. Punchy and potent when raw, leeks turn gorgeously sweet when cooked. Their nuanced sweetness here was offset by the nice char bite thanks to the roasting and paired beautifully with the velvety mushrooms.
Next arrived the New Potatoes Bravas (£6): crispy, flavourful and pretty addictive, this dish represents why the phrase “it’s food you just want to eat” applies to Peckham Cellars without pretence. Conjuring sunny Spanish flavours, this classic brightens up any wintery evening.
The kitchen here just want to feed you, sans fuss. Sadly the Butter Beans ricotta, pistachio pesto (£12) were off the menu as not at all vegan but the plate looked incredible on the pass, probably also helped by chef smiles!
The staff immediately feel like friends and you can’t help but trust their suggestions as they break down the extensive wine list. Eclectic yet considered, the wines focus on Europe with the core of the list from France and Spain. The carafe of Sauvignon Blanc we ordered paired with the plates very nicely: dry, fuss-free and easy to drink, it allowed the flavours of each dish to sing through.
Peckham Cellars is proof that laidback, neighbourhood dining done well is one of the best evenings out you can hope to have in London. If this place is on your doorstep, you’ve done very well.
Peckham Cellars, 125 Queen’s Rd, London SE15 2ND
Website: https://peckhamcellars.co.uk/
Rating: ****
Yumtini 