Poon’s Wontoneria is currently operating as a pop-up on Charlotte Street. Despite being a relative newcomer to the London food scene, it boasts a long and proud history. It’s the kind of tale that might feature on a Netflix documentary. No stranger to the London food scene, legendary Bill and Cecilia Poon introduced London to Cantonese gastronomy in the 1970s. For over three decades, their eponymous restaurants – by the name of Poon’s – were a Chinese culinary institution, with its Covent Garden outpost winning a Michelin star. Retiring in 2006, their daughter Amy revived the business, operating pop-ups, delivery services and producing Poon’s signature chilli sauce.
This week marks the final stretch of Amy’s residency at Carousel. As the name implies, Carousel offers a revolving-door policy of guest chefs who come in for short-stay residencies. Poon’s took over their slightly longer-stay residency space next door, No 23, in early February last year. Luckily for London diners, what was first pitched as a three-month stay was extended thanks to its popularity. And better still this is a intimate setting, with 16 covers arranged around the open kitchen counter which offers a top notch view of the food (and drinks) being prepared.
The menu – as the name suggetsts – is centred around wontons but not before some sharing plates. The Pickled Vegetables (£5) arrived first. Featuring carrots, cauliflower and cucumber, these are simultaneously tart and sweet. This small little bowl provides a welcome reference point throughout your meal, a refreshing counterpoint to return to alongside the spicier orders.
Speaking of spicy, not to miss are the Aubergine in Lislle Street Zha Jiang Sauce (£10). Roasted aubergine coated in a spicy fried sauce, this veggie dish is very satisfying. The aubergine are cooked to perfection, singing with umami flavour notes making for a wholesome bite.
Wonton-wise, we went for the Vegetarian option (£9.80): five parcels of neatly packed jackfruit, tofu, cabbage, woodear mushroom and water chestnuts. Soft, silky and slippery, these dumplings are packed with flavour. Drizzled in Poon’s signature chilli vinegar sauce alongside spring onions, they’re seriously addictive. Eaten within minutes. The winning feature is probably the sauce – spicy and slightly tart, this chilli number deserves to be mopped up. I ended up dipping the pickled vegetables to finish the bowl clean.
Also not to miss is the yuzu chilli margarita. Punchy and to the point, this is a no-mess kinda’s drink. Short and spicy!
Though on the pricier side, if you like food with a personal edge, you’ll love Poon’s. The same goes for anyone who obsesses over the details of dumplings.
Poon’s Wontoneria, 23 Charlotte St, London W1T 1RW
Website: http://www.wontoneria.com/
Rating: ***
Yumtini 