From the team behind The Counter in Notting Hill comes its second venue on Soho’s Kingly Street. Chef Kemal Demirasal is one of Turkey’s most celebrated (self-taught) chefs and former six-time Turkish national windsurfing champion. Sticking with the coastal theme, here he celebrates the food of the Aegean coast: dishes are crafted with salt dried under the Aegean sun, knives forged in Tarsus and tahini from specialists who have been making it since 1775.
Unlike the Aegean menu, the interiors are modern and monochrome. Exposed brick walls and roughly hewn plaster envelop the dining room, contrasting with its polished chestnut tables, wishbone chairs and buttery soft banquette seating. Unlike the Notting Hill branch, though, there’s no live counter-kitchen in Soho – a trick they may have missed.
The Counter’s menu is inspired by the flavours of Turkey, combined with the influences of the Aegean regions of Greece and the Levant. Though there’s a lot to explore on the menu, veggie options seem to be limited to dips and flatbread/crackers. As I was here for a quick bite pre-concert, this didn’t bother me but it’s a shame veggies aren’t showcased to their full potential here.
That’s not to detract from the wonder of The Counter’s pistachio muhammara (£9), though. This classic red bell pepper dip is infused here with luxurious pistachios, walnuts and pomegranate molasses. The sweetness of its rendition – which seems to be a common theme of the dips here, from the white chocolate babaganoush to the hummus & medjool dates – feels indulgent and leaves you with a smile. Served alongside za’atar spiced crackers, this is a very good start to any meal.
To accompany, cam the istanbuli tomato salad (£12) seasoned with sumac, pomegranate molasses, sherry vinegar and chives. Perfectly spiced, these tomatoes need little else alongside, particularly as the sweeter summer tomatoes creep into season. Ingredients here have been specially imported to guarantee that customers receive a true taste of Turkey, and every detail feels fresh and carefully considered.
Contemporary Turkish cusine is a favourite for me and at The Counter showcases the flavours of Greece and Turkey wonderfully. You’ll be left with only one lingering regret: that you couldn’t order it all.
The Counter, 15 Kingly St, Carnaby, London W1B 5PS
Website: https://thecounterlondon.com/soho/
Rating: ***
Yumtini 