The aptly-named Half Cut Market occupies that curiously limbo area: on the cusp of Islington and Camden, it’s neither Tufnell, Holloway nor Kentish. Though (or because) of its half-way space (pun intended), it’s one that has proven ripe for regeneration, with a thriving scene of artisan coffee shops, independent wine bars and creative pop-ups.
Half Cut originally opened in 2021 as a wine bar, shop and deli but now offers a short, seasonal food menu and hosts some fantastic names in the restaurant scene as pop-up (not least Helen Graham – former Bubala, Ottolenghi, Barbary and Palmoar chef – on 9 June 2024). Founded by four north London friends – Danny, Holly, Edwin & Paul – with experience at the Noble Rot, The Marksman & 40FT Brewery, it was soon holding sold-out pop-ups and supper clubs, putting it firmly on London’s ever-sprawling foodie map. With restaurant rent fast rising, pop-ups and supper clubs seem to be the way to try out some of the most innovative food menus in the capital at the moment – a useful testing ground for new names and one for well-established names to dip their toes back into the waters, including for charity fund-raising – not least, Sami Tamimi’s and Fadi Kattan’s supper clubs of late.
Half Cut feels like a real neighbourhood spot – a stream of walk-ins were swinging by for their weekend bottles – and if it were closer to my home, I’d certainly be doing the same. Though they have an attractive cocktail menu – featuring blood orange negroni and picante (spicy margarita) – their wine is ideal for a summer evening – think premium low-intervention and natural, including a good number of English wines both sparkling and from Tillingham estate. This evening, we went for a glass of Spanish Parabòlic Blanc (Macabeu, Xarel·lo, Parellada) from the Vinícola de Nulles winery. A dry, “textural”, fruity white, it’s very easy to drink and light. To follow, we went for a carafe of Domaine Guy Allion. A sauvignon blanc, this zesty herbaceous white matched very well with our food.
Like the wine, the interiors are laid-back and effortlessly hip: think a Miles Davis poster, distressed candles, houseplants and bare pendant lighting. With a handful of tables inside, a few out and a small counter to perch at near the kitchen, the vibe is cosy yet cool.
Food-wise, the kitchen kindly accommodated my vegan requests and adapted the dishes as requested with plates arriving in a steady flow. To start, the team kindly sent over a small bowl of super juicy, XL Perello olives (£4) with their herby House focaccia (£4.50). Both are excellent snacks to pick on over sips of dry wine. Salty, moreish and full of flavour.
For plates proper, we went for Charred hispi cabbage with mojo rojo (£12). The cabbage had been grilled to smokey perfection to leave visible BBQ marks. Topped with a crunchy finish of hazlenuts and a drizzle of sweet yet spicy pepper sauce, each bite ticks all the boxes.
The kitchen also pulled off an off-the-menu plate which was probably the highlight of the evening: Navarrico Haricot white beans, gently cooked in olive oil, herbs and lemon. The team here nail their produce: given the quality of these beans – used by Brindisa – very little cooking is needed. An ideal dish for early summer.
For some fresh greens alongside, the Spring green salad topped with a generous scattering of hazlenuts was vibrant yet creamy.
And to finish, the best kind of (summer) desert: ice cream. Our happy ending was just that: Happy Ending’s vegan East Side ice-cream sandwich. A Corn and cashew ‘ice-cream’ filled with smokey salted caramel, lacey miso and a corn cookie, it was a masterful balance of sweet and smokey.
The young team are all extremely knowledgeable – not least George! – without being overbearing with their suggestions or recommendations. And there’s something about the fluidity of the place – half this, half that – which creates an easygoing atmosphere that seduces you to stay for just one more. Or then again, maybe it’s that slightly off-the-beaten-track location.
Half Cut Market, 396 York Way, London N7 9LW
Website: http://www.halfcut.world/
Rating: ***
Yumtini 