Tucked behind the White Horse pub at the tip of Rye Lane, Janda Diner is a two-dozen seater Malaysian restaurant that punches well above its weight. Thanks to the insights shared by one of the very welcoming founders, Lanny, I learn that “Janda” translates as “female divorcee”. Often stigmatised, Janda here is recast as an icon of female empowerment, embracing life and all that it has to throw at her in all senses. And assuming this divorcee bears children, she’s one that prepares food full of flavour for her offspring and guests. Though visiting mid-summer, these themes of re-blossoming and re-branding would make a meal at Janda’s ideal for Spring (clean!).
Inside, the vibe is cosy and home-spun. Indeed, this small shop is one that wants to make you feel at home – which thanks to its size and welcoming hosts, is an instant success. I was heart-warmed after a conversation with Lanny who – from a very creative background in Malaysia and a side in TV production – talks to you like a family member. Appreciating that everyone has their own stories to tell and share, Lanny is engaged and interested: full of questions about its diners’ background. Janda is about giving back to the people in every sense.
Thanks to the plate-spinning abilities of Janda’s talented chef Ady Yacob – who’s been Michelin-starred trained – the Diner prepares Malaysian street food with a twist of fine dining. This is street-food elevated in all senses, also thanks to the melting pot of influences that Malacca – where Janda’s founders are from – has. Think Chinese, Indian, Thai.
My companion and I shared two dishes. First up, Squash Lemak Putih (£14). A butternut squash curry in a coconut sauce and cavolo nero. This is soul-soothing food: sweet yet full of spices, it feels gentle, warming, and utterly moreish. Also thanks to the garlic spiced vibrant Turmeric Rice (£4) and smokey Tempeh to accompany.
Next came the Terung Sambal Neraka (£13): Grilled aubergine with spiced fried okra and a super spicy sambal. These okra fritter-like bites are explosions of joy: crispy, exotic yet green. Goodness in every way. Though the sambal sitting besides the aubergine wasn’t super spicy, the aubergine had been well-cooked – always a difficult feat to pull off when it comes to this veggie – and complemented the curry dish well.
To sip, a refreshing and zingy Janda Potion (£6): ginger, lime and pandan syrup. An ideal summer drink, it’s an exotic take on a fresh lemonade, the ginger is at once fiery yet calming. Like the evening at Janda’s all round. Though just off the Rye on the top of Nigel Road, this is a turning worth taking.
Janda Diner, 18 Peckham Rye, SE15 4JR.
Rating: ****
Website: https://www.jandalondon.uk
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