Tucked away down a windy residential street in Hackney, Japanese restaurant Uchi feels like a neighbourhood gem. Self-describing as a home-style café, “Uchi” fittingly means “house” in Japanese. Its unique Japanese ambience is evident even before you step inside. The large windows offer a view of the horigotatsu tables and wooden stools and once inside, the restaurant, instantly evokes a sense of Japan – as confirmed by my companion with whom I was dining this evening and who’s lived in Japan for some years.
Uchi in fact started as a sushi delivery service, dropping off responsibly-sourced sushi around Hackney by bike. You wouldn’t guess its takeaway history once inside, which is an aesthetically pleasing space in every sense. From the brushed gold countertops, delicate blush walls and wooden stools, to the pretty glass vases with Autumnal foliage and the square cards announcing the specials – it feels like a film set. The lighting is soft – perfect for a date – the music jazzy (in keeping with London jazz festival that weekend) and the atmosphere relaxing. Probably the standout seats are at the tables tucked away behind curtains at the back of the restaurant, with slippers for diners to tread into for their seating. If it wasn’t for the trek out here and delayed overground and bus services, it all might feel a bit too perfect.
The menu here is short but succinct, with plenty of specials on offer which shouldn’t be overlooked and standout veggie / vegan dishes. Food is ordered on a paper menu which you tick and mark to indicate how many orders of each. To get the appetite (and body) warmed up, we picked on the renkkon (lotus root) crisps with sea salt (£5). These moreish chips are light, crispy and certainly get you in the mood for more.
Alongside, we ordered the hijiki seaweed, carrot & deep fried tofu (£8) salad. Deep, earthy and full of umami satisfaction, this is a messy tangle of black seaweed joy. Very easy to finish.
Sushi wise, the vegan choice here is tempura broccoli (£9, 5 pieces). Though billed as broccoli, there’s so much more to these black rice sushi than a single veggie. A rainbow of colours, they’re also generously filled with mushrooms, peppers, avocado and wrapped in crisp nori. With the lightly-battered broccoli providing a satisfying crunch, the textural contrast makes each bite an exploding party. The freshness of the sushi here is also exceptional.
The aubergine marinated in miso (£8) is probably the standout (of a very good set of dishes) here. The texture of this warm dish is spot on: soft but still solid and not in the least bit sloppy. The miso sings through, providing that elusive umami je ne sais quoi.
The attention to detail in the décor and food here make Uchi pretty hard to fault. The service was, at times, a little slow but this was a Friday evening and by 9pm the restaurant was packed. Uchi feels like true a neighbourhood restaurant. Though a fairly active Instagram, it otherwise has minimal marketing, a simple website and no fanfare: it’s just quietly getting on with things, turning out solid Japanese fare in its own quietly confident way, while locals filter in.
Uchi, 144 Clarence Rd, Lower Clapton, London E5 8DY
Website: http://uchihackney.com/
Rating: *****
Yumtini 