Above the Globe Tavern in Borough Market (in what was once Bridget Jones’ flat) sits Khao Bird, a Thai restaurant with a focus on the northern Thai food of Chiang Mai. Pubs and Northern Thai food seem to be enjoying a symbiotic relationship currently – another pop-up on My List in Clapham’s The King & Co is Rice Paddy. The Borough edition is the work of Mike Palmer — known for Lucky Khao in Brighton — and head chef Luke Larsson, who underwent regular research trips to the open-air night markets of Thailand. This spot in Borough marks their first permanent London residency.
Small, simply decorated and intimate, the focus here is on the roaring open kitchen and a large neon sign on the wall – reminiscent of the Bangkok streets. Casting a pink light over the dining room, this is a cosy, warmy-lit space – ideal for a December evening. The atmosphere is as buzzing as the streets of Chiang Mai – as well as the crowds gathering in the pub below.
The service is friendly and knowledgeable, with our waitresses – alumnae of the Brighton original – welcomingly guided us through the menu, including spice levels and terminology. The focus of the menu here is northern Thai barbecue, regional specialities such as khao soi (curry and noodles), and “playful takes” on street food snacks from Chiang Mai and surrounds.
To start has to be corn long ribs with laab sauce and coconut relish (£9). This lively sauce is edible by the spoon – replicating a fish sauce, it’s full of texture and body thanks to the coconut and full of umami notes. It’s simultaneously sweet yet spicy, complementing the local corn beautifully.
In the mood for something seasonal, alongside we ordered Pad Phrik King (£9.40). This dry red curry gives winter greens – roasted brussel sprouts and long green beans – a spicy twist with wild ginger, kaffir lime, coconut oil and chilli. Full of kick and body, the greens had just the right bite and were well coated in spices. The portions here are very generously sized, especially given price – it’s very good value for money.
As I was keen to try their signature homemade northern style chickpea tofu, the chef kindly sent over a small bowl to sample alongside their Burmese Khao Soi, a rich coconut curry sauce with mustard greens and all the fixings alongside – spring onions, cabbage and onion relish. Chiang Mai’s most popular dish is khao soi, and here it is recreated with the authenticity. It’s comfort in a bowl and a perfect choice for the more chilli-averse – a little sweet thanks to the coconut, and not too spicy.
All the dishes here are rich in authentic Thai flavours, sweet, silky and herby tastes, cut through with the distinctive tang and saltiness of miso and other umami-style ingredients.
The restaurant uses produce from Sussex, including from the Knepp Estate, a 3,500-acre rewilding project, and Shrub, which cultivates vegetables and herbs. There’s also an emphasis on Bermondsey, with local suppliers Kernel Beer, Ice Cream Union, and Bermondsey St Honey on the roster. Their philosophy is simple: to blend the bold flavours and techniques of Thailand with the best local ingredients from in and around Brighton. This is a place you can nestle in for hours and for a flavour bomb-filled menu inspired by the fun of the night markets of Chiang Mai, Khao Bird is well worth a visit. Full of flavour, down to earth and unique dishes to transport you to the energetic city streets of Thailand.
Khao Bird, The Globe tavern, 8 Bedale Street Upstairs, London SE1 9AL
Website: https://www.khaobird.com/
Rating: *****
Yumtini 