From well-renowned Australian chef David Thompson comes “Long Chim”, on the corner of Chinatown and just down the road from another hit Thai spot, Speedboat Bar. “Long chim” translates loosely as ‘come and try’. Having relished a dinner here, I’d certainly be tempted to return to try more of the (vegan!) menu.
When he opened Nahm in 2001, Thompson changed the face of Thai food in the UK, sidelining the predictable, cosy and safe dishes we’d grown used to – that comforting sweetness and nuttiness, with gentle, fragrant wafts of coriander and unthreatening heat – and instead showcased punchy flavours, robust spicing, and often alarmingly bold levels of both fresh and dried chillies.
Though aiming towards an authentic taste of Thai street food – which the open buzzy kitchen helps with – the dining room has clearly been designed with careful attention, a million miles away from any kind of Thai market! Occupying the ground floor of Hovarda it’s full of of bold decor – think, neon signs, animal murals and studiously staged piles of bottles – which are all very carefully thought out. At times, the lighting is purple, at others blue. It’s worth nabbing a table close by the open kitchen, where head chef Patipan “Pae” Jipromma can be seen working his magic behind the pass.
Amazingly, Long Chim offer a vegan menu. Dishes are mostly inspired by southern Thailand and its borderlands, but Thompson’s quirky twists present you with flavour combinations that often feel entirely original.
To start, my companion and I shared the Long Chim rolls (£8), a.k.a. long and slender spring rolls. Its flaky thin pastry encases blanched Chinese greens, dressed with mushroom oyster sauce, sesame oil, all deep-fried garlic, wrapped, rolled and deep-fried. The soy sauce on the side was very moreish. Off to a very tasty start.
For mains, I went for an Aromatic curry of pumpkin served with a cucumber, papaya, onion relish (£18) and Jasmine Rice (£4). Punchily priced, it certainly delivers. Each wedge of pumpkin is thick and provides a creamy bite, ideal for soaking up the pond of coconutty curry sauce with just the right amount of heat. The accompanying relish – more like a mini-salad – was also a welcome addition, provide a limey, spicy, pickle-like fresh finish to the rich, velvety pumpkin.
Long Chim is definitely a place worth booking to pay homage to the culinary legend Thompson. Its maximalist room is home to an orchestrated cooking-style delivering food packed with punch and flavour.
Long Chim, 36-40 Rupert St, London W1D 6DW
Website: https://longchim.london/menu
Rating: *****
Yumtini 