Georgian restaurant Kinkally, in the foodie enclave of Charlotte Street, had been on My List for a long while. A highlight of this long-overlooked cuisine is their dumplings, which have been turned into an art form here. The brains behind Kinkally and its sultry subterranean sidekick Bar Kinky is Diana Militski. She’s been travelling to Georgia since she was a child and having fallen in love with its food, Diana wanted to bring its unique cuisine to the capital and give it a modern spin.
It’s clear that everything here has been carefully thought through. “Our concept can be called ‘coexistence of Georgia and Asia’. So where does Asia come in? Dumplings originated in China, and the founders here have brought its origins into the design concept of Kinkally. Designed by interior and architecture studio Da Bureau, the interiors at Kinkally draw inspiration from the meeting of Europe and Asia, inspired by the Caucasus Mountains – the birthplace of khinkali.
Whilst much thought has gone into the details, everything is carefully understated. Set behind an elegant stone façade and floor-to-ceiling windows, the interiors feature natural materials and neutral colours – highlights include a stone ceiling, soft plastered walls, and wooden and steel furniture. It’s very sultry. Suspended branches hang in the space like a sculpture, while a spotlight artfully casts shadows on the wall and floor. Like the best restaurants, the highlight of the space is the counter kitchen at the back of the ground floor. Made from wood and concrete, and asymmetric in shape, it allows people to come together over food – key to Georgian culture. It’s worth booking a week or two in advance to secure stools here.
Kinkally’s menu focuses on khinkali, a twisted dough-based dumpling from which the restaurant playfully takes its name, and other small plates. Beginning with the latter, first up was Baked aubergine (£12). Served with bold, spiced satsebeli and a smooth, sweet vanilla matsoni (creamy yogurt), the dish tastes very Asian. Cooked to perfection – with just the right amount of bite – it was melt-in-the-mouth – the highlight of the evening for sure. The dish also exemplifies how aubergine can be the perfect carrier of spices, fresh herbs and deep, nutty flavours.
Next up, was Broccoli Pkhali (£12). A stunning mix of barbary, bergamot, and walnut, this dip is a surprising twist on hummus. For me, it was a touch underseasoned but an easy fix and a treat for the eyes and the palette.
Another highlight was the Pickled kimchi tomatoes (£9) with red tkemali (plum sauce) and a fiery kick of adjika. The dish was a careful balance between sweet and bold, with just enough heat to keep you coming back for more. Adjika, a traditional Georgian-Abkhazian spice blend, was born from the need to preserve ingredients and flavours before refrigeration. Made with red peppers, garlic, herbs, and salt, over time, this bold creation became a staple, celebrated for its unapologetic heat and rich, layered taste.
Then it was on to the khinkali: the distinctive twisted shape is made beautifully. You can eat them elegantly with the wooden tongs or better still, with your fingers, dipping each dumpling into the sauce. The veggie option is filled with seasonal Portobello and king oyster mushrooms and served with a porcini sauce (£12). For me, the dumplings were probably the most underwhelming dish of the evening. The mushroom flavour failed to sing through and the texture felt a touch doughy. The Small Plates earlier had set the bar very high and were difficult to follow.
To sip, the Georgian natural wine is a must. I enjoyed a glass of white (Miriam Ori Marani) (£13) which was aromatic, light and complemented the bold flavours of the food beautifully.
The Kinkally experience is very different and in London’s crowded restaurant scene there is much to applaud when a restaurant manages to stand out from the crowd. Whilst prices are on the steep side, Kinkally genuinely offers a unique concept.
Kinkally, 43 Charlotte St., London W1T 1RS
Website: https://kinkally.co.uk/
Rating: ***
Yumtini 