Lai Rai (meaning “little by little”) brings the Vietnamese culture of bia hơi – a meeting for snacks and cold beers – to Peckham. A café by day (11am-3pm), this new spot becomes a satay-scented canteen by night (post 6pm). True to its name, it’s a spot ideal for long, summer nights.
Situated on Rye Lane — a world of street barbecues and money transfer shops, of Caribbean grocery stores and mobile repair booths — Lai Rai stands out, crisp and neat. Inside the décor pays homage to retro Vietnamese canteens and features motifs drawn from utilitarian cafes across the country. A buttery yellow colour palette is accented with the red of 1950s diners and shiny textures all over – the pin-thin neon strip lights; the metal stools; the chopsticks; the red sharing bowls.
It looks faintly make-believe – almost Wes Anderson – but has the feeling (and sound) of the place to be. Huddled over the small tables are young dates, cool kids and laughing groups. Set across two floors, the upstairs dining room has large communal tables for bigger groups. The space is probably more relaxed in feel compared to the noisy downstairs where the vibe is clammering – with the sounds of cocktails being shaken every 5 minutes – and more energetic.
A collaborative venture between Blair Nguyen and Ivy Vo of @vinaxoa, Joseph Losper and Tomio Shota of @houseofbaby.studio, and visual artist AP Nguyen, Lai Rai is part of the Banh Banh restaurant group. The menu here takes inspiration from across Vietnam, though with a modern approach and plenty of very tempting vegan options. To start, we went for tofu whip will dill, pine nuts and sesame crackers (£8): creamy and herby whipped perfection, this is unmatched. A dreamy revelation.
Alongside, papaya salad with pineapple, viet herbs and peanuts (£11). A symphony of textures, this was at once citrusy, sweet and crisp – everything you could want on a hot summer night. Generously seasoned with herbs – including fresh and fragrant basil – the flavours were perfectly balanced.
From the big plates, the grilled seasonal vegetables with miso kho quet (£11) are another eye-opener. A total thrill and effortlessly moreish, this is food you cannot get enough of. The flavours here blend nostalgic Saigon eats with rave culture roots – bringing new takes on traditions.
Rice comes in the form of fragrant mung bean coconut sticky rice cakes (£4), steamed and deep-fried. A naughty treat totally worth ordering, this is an ideal vehicle for mopping up the last of the tofu whip and the saucy miso veg.
The food here is modern, innovative and bursting with flavour – elevating Vietnamese street food to the next level. Lai Rai is definitely one to watch; I’ll certainly be revisiting for an iced coconut milk Viet latte and day-time bite.
Lai Rai, 181 Rye Ln, London SE15 4TP
Website: https://www.lairai.london/
Rating: *****
Yumtini 