Folde showcases how satisfying cooking with veggies can be but in an unpreachy way. Formerly a morning-afternoon café, the next chapter in its journey is an evening offering. Seasonal, sustainable and thoughtful, Folde proves that the best veggie restaurants are those that don’t make a song and dance about it. A few minutes walk away from Clapham Junction, Folde is located on the quieter stretch of St John’s Hill. To have this kind of veggie restaurant nearby is almost too good to be true (for SW11, at least!).
The décor is understated and simple: a bright, modern room wrapped around a central bar, where we sat. The space feels warm and lively without being loud. It’s relaxed, but not sleepy; stylish, but not smug. The room buzzes gently with groups of Clapham and Battersea twentysomethings, and more than a few friend-heavy tables of wine and gossip.
The menu is entirely vegetarian, frequently vegan. Small plates arrive as and when, with enough heft and colour to feel like you’re feasting rather than foraging. Starting with dips, the Folde Romesco, Almond & Guajillo Chilli Oil (£7) delivers on all fronts. Studded with smokey almonds – whole and flaked – and a crispy dukka, these sharp notes sat gloriously above the creamy base beneath. This must be one of the best dips I’ve tried in a while: warming, rounded and finished with a rim of quality chilli oil with just the right level of heat.
Alongisde landed a hunk of warm House Foccacia (£5) still steaming and freshly fried Hot Masala Potato Chips (£5). The masala mix – inspired by Indian flavours – is a house blend I’m told. According to the founder Guy, these are the most popular vegan starters and for good reason.
For mains, Crispy Aubergine, Curry Butter Sauce, Pickled Cabbage Slaw (£15). This breaded fried aubergine is total satisfaction and cooked to perfection – a feat always difficult to achieve with aubergine. The slaw, meanwhile, was studded with more friend peanuts. Everything here feels like a treat.
For a happy ending, Basque Cheesecake (£7) for my companion and bitter sweet Rhubarb Sherbert Doughnuts (£2) for me, upgrading a childhood favourite and celebrating the very end of rhubarb season. Small, independently run and thoughtful, supporting these kind of local restaurants is a total treat.
Folde, 143 St John’s Hl, London SW11 1TQ
Website: https://www.folderestaurant.com/
Rating: ****
Yumtini 