Archway

Battersea has seen a good number of restaurant openings over the past year – mostly chains given the exorbitant rental prices of Nine Elms and the Power Station. But just outside the main development lies a more hidden stretch under the arches, home to a handful of independents including the aptly named Archway, a charming, fuss-free Italian.

Approaching the restaurant down a side street off a busy roundabout, I wondered if I was a little lost whilst looking for this supposedly chic dining spot. My apprehension melted immediately, however, on entering the railway arch (through the very heavy doors) which plays cradle to Archway. Stepping into the space immediately warmed my frosty December bones from the inside out. Jazz tinkled through the air accompanying the chinking of cutlery in what struck me as a very well-attended Tuesday night service.

The room is light, airy and unpretentious and interiors are simple, stunning and classic: gorgeous ivory panelled beams, drippy tapered candles, marble surfaces, and bright woodwork reaching up to the ceiling. Like most establishments, the best dining spot is to be found at the kitchen counter.

The Italian-inflected menu – which reminded me of the River Café – changes monthly and is concise, but flexible, with four starters, four mains, and four pasta dishes that can work as either. Our sharing plates were knock-outs: delectably fluffy Focaccia with tangy olive oil and balsamic vinegar (£4.50) and Greens (kale, specifically) beautifully marinated in a nutty, balsamic dressing (£7).

Pasta-wise, I went for Gnocchi, prepared vegan by our kind Neapolitan chef, with delica pumpkin and fried sage (£24). Traditionally a hearty and comforting sauce, this was both, but also showed off skill in blending smoky flavours without overdoing it. Very refined.

My (Italian) companion, meanwhile, enjoyed the Taglioni crab (£27), a regional speciality which was creamy yet light and fresh, with just the right al dente bite.

Service was friendly and polished: the heart sometimes sinks when the server declares they’ll talk through the menu, but it was brisk and helpful, with no upselling or gratuitous company speak. Our server was also great with the well-priced wine list. Archway is a neighbourhood gem for sure. It doesn’t seem to be drawing the crowds in from all over, but is instead quietly maintaining it’s position as a spot reserved for locals. Low-key flex?!