Willows has been on the scene for three years now but (somewhat surprisingly) seems to remain an under-the-radar spot for locals. That may be because of its location: Clapham Old Town (the nice bit, away from the Common). Defining itself as a “deli-to-restaurant” affair, their style is unpretentious and understated but in a thoughtful, seasonal and sustainable way. And a totally unique way. Inspired by Scandinavian ‘smörgåsbords’, their brunch concept is based on “build your brunch” boards until 5pm, followed by small plates, cheese and charcuterie in the evening. Plates are ordered by ticking off choices on menu sheets, with dishes grouped by category (for brunch: bakery, dairy, protein, greens; for dinner: hot, cold, greens, sweet) – creating a more involved and invested dining experience.
Though I’ve been here a few times for their (very good) coffee, I’d yet to brunch here and the start of 2026 – in that no-man’s-land period post-Christmas and pre-New Year return to work – seemed like a good opportunity to finally tick off this spot – in all senses – with a local friend. And bonus: on my visit, I ran into Becky and Billy, the brains behind Willows. Childhood friends, the duo started working together in the hospitality world 7 years ago and have since hoped to create somewhere of their own. After nailing down a few non-negotiables (they wanted a space near a park that was in a residential area) the hunt for their restaurant/deli bricks and mortar began. A hop away from The Common and with a steady flow of locals that they can get to know, they founded Willows.
Priced at 3 brunch plates for £13.50, 4 for £18 and 5 for £22.50, it’s incredibly good value. The vegan options are also diverse. My board was attractive both aesthetically and ingredient-wise, and together with dishes from different food groups, felt very wholesome and satisfying.
From the Proteins, I ticked Scrambled tofu, creamed leeks, pickled leek tops, hazlenuts. This was a tofu revelation: an ingredient that can be tricky to pull of well. Requiring a lot of flavour and thought, it’s pairing with leeks was a first. Textural contrast was also achieved through toasted hazlenuts which offset the creamy consistency of the tofu beautifully. A successful bowl all round.
Though not green in colour, from the Greens I ticked Miso squash, tamarind tahini, za’atar, pinenuts and Mushrooms, togarashi chimichurri with garlic yoghurt. Both these dishes were also standouts. The squash combined possibly all my favourite ingredients in one dish. The seasonal squash was also cooked to perfection: melt-in-the-mouth yet with the perfect bite, and sitting above a layer of sweet yet spiced tahini.
The mushrooms, meanwhile, were full of spice and kick. Togarashi is a vibrant seven-spice Japanese condiment, featuring chili pepper for heat, citrus peel for zest, sesame seeds, nori (seaweed), ginger, and Japanese pepper (sansho). These complex, fiery, and aromatic notes were balanced above the layer of soothing, creamy Greek yogurt with the VIP garlic.
Each dish was also finished with a beautiful oil – whether chilli or herby – reflecting how the kitchen here takes no shortcuts in flavour, spicing or finish. Service was also warm and welcoming, though a little slow thanks to a busy service.
I’m a big fan of Willows’ DIY approach to eating. It makes diners feel like they’re playing a part in curating the experience here, the meal is in our hands, whilst retaining an epicurean approach. It’s also bringing a small plates tapas-style dining to brunch – which is relatively rare. The cult of brunch has moved on from avocado on toast (albeit avocado is on the menu here). Phew. Let’s hope it catches on board.
Willows, 11 The Polygon, Clapham Old Town, London SW4 0JG
Website: https://www.willowsclapham.com/
Rating: *****
Yumtini 