A pizza soft launch coinciding with various June birthdays – ideal ingredients for some Italianate indulgence at bargain prices. Although I say Italian, Made of Dough is South London’s answer to excellent food in the leafy and highly gentrified (on which, see Jay Rayner’s eloquent piece on Tooting here) Bellenden Road. Branching out from the shipping containers of Pop Brixton, travelling pizzeria Made of Dough has landed on what is Peckham’s, and arguably South London’s, finest foodie lane. Sitting alongside an excellent local Grocers and the renowned General Store, and over the road from Anderson’s and the wonderful Artusi (whose pasta is the stuff of dreams), Made of Dough mixes up the scene with pizza, whose dough is something to write home about…
Once inside after a very long queue – it is their opening weekend after all – the vibe is very cool: think SE15 trendy youth socialising in rimmed-glasses, playsuits and blazers, against a background of suitably hip and loud tunes. It feels very Peckham: New York tiles interspersed against exposed brick walls, and shelves stocking peanut butter (the magic ingredient of their Motherf***king peanut butter and vanilla (dairy-free) oat shake), alongside limoncellos. The space itself is divided between a cocktail bar, a chef’s table around a wood-fired pizza oven, along with 50 covers some of which are in a charmingly al fresco courtyard.
Now onto the pizzas…Made of Dough was set up in 2014 in an effort to throw the spotlight of pizza onto its base: the dough. Using a simple but lean dough recipe with a 60 hour fermentation process (for full deets, check out their video into the process here), the bases are supposed to be chewy, elastic and light – everything you’d want to hold quality toppings: think mozzarella (driven fresh from Campania twice a week) and tomatoes grown on the foothills of Mt. Vesuvius.
Our choices didn’t disappoint. Cooked on a wood-fired oven (naturellment), the bases lived up to expectations: chewy and charred to perfection, the crusts are not to be discarded. Especially as we’d ordered the Basil aioli (£1.50) and Scotch bonnet romesco (£1.50) sides for some dippage action. The rustic branded wrapping paper and thin steel plates they’re presented on also added to their charm. And let’s not forget the toppings, which were full of flavour – I loved the portobello mushrooms on the truffle pizza, and the tomatoes were brimming with Italianate sweetness.
For afters, we shared one of their legendary Gelato shakes: the Motherf***king one, featuring PB. We all loved our sips. Crunchy, nutty and and a bit of guilt-free indulgence, gelato is just what you need after a pizza.
For exemplary pizzas (“and some” – as their sign reminds you), head here. Oh, and their starters look pretty outstanding: I found myself eyeing up other diners’ Garlic & rosemary bread (£4) and Cavolo nero with celeriac & pomegranate (£4). I’ll just have to return to sample their supplementals on a Monday, when the wine (and other booze) is half price, allowing you to ease (or eat) yourself gently into the week…
Made of Dough, 182 Bellenden Road, SE15 4BW