Cavita

The much anticipated debut restaurant of Mexican chef Adriana Cavita had been on My List for some time.  A June birthday or two seemed like the ideal opportunity to tick off.  Cavita, the person, is a well-known talent: previously trained at El Bulli, she has a degree in gastronomy and has explored her country’s under-appreciated food traditions in creative ways: what’s most impressive about her restaurant is the fresh eye it brings to crowd-pleasing, street classics.

Speaking of roadside, terracotta tiles, crumbling exposed brick and plenty of plants dangling overhead, you hardly remember you’re in Marylebone after stepping into this charming and relaxed space.  The interiors at Cavita are definitely key to its success.  Formed as an indoor courtyard, the restaurant is split into two large dining rooms, the first of which looks onto the open kitchen and the second to the restaurant’s bar counter.

Surrounded by decorative masks and a ceiling thick with trussed-up hanging plants, it’s total escapism.  And that’s exactly how Cavita wants you to feel, taking diners on a journey to her two hometowns: Mexico City and the village of San Felipe Ixtacuixtla.  The finished result is a relaxed, colourful and memorable culinary journey with home at the heart of the experience. 

Every aspect of Cavita is infused with laidback warmth and the feeling of home.  We started with a Margarita each: a smokey, spicy Chilli Mezcal Margarita for me, and a Hisbicus Margarita and House Watermelon Margarita for my companions.  All served with lime-infused salt made in-house, they’re ideal palette cleansers to the June heat.

As for the food, every dish came out full of inventive presentation and bursting with colour, though somehow each dish felt like it was missing something.  We kicked things off with Mooli & Pomegranate Ceviche (£11), an elegant composition of amaranth, avocado, lemon leaves, lime, habanero and nasturtium flowers.  Like every dish here, the plates are adorned with floral notes but don’t be fooled – this dish has a good spicy kick.  Piled above the accompanying corn crisp, it gets the meal going to a fiery start.

From the appetisers, we went for Esquites (£13): heirloom corn in a chipotle broth.  Though fresh and certainly celebrating corn in all its glory, the dish felt unseasonal for the first Indian summer streak of the season.  Perhaps a menu refresh is needed?

Alongside, came the Ensalda de Betabel (£13), a beetroot salad with blood orange, rocket and caramelised sunflowers.  Sweet and raw, this was more in keeping with summer’s arrival.  With all the freshenss and colour you crave in the heat, it was zesty, summery and light though not particularly Mexican.

From the street, we went for Tetela de Calabaza (£12) of butternut squash, chickpeas, goat curd, morita sauce and mixed herbs.  This was undoubtedly the star dish of the evening.  Sitting above a smokey, black bean sauce, the tetale – a corn-based wrap – was full of uumph, flavour- and texture-wise.

Though, with a margarita or two, you can easily fill up on the small plates, we also ordered a main to share: Mole Verde – veggie edition (£35).  Robustly charred mushrooms and celeriac, paired with a vibrant green mole, green herbs and pumpkin seeds, the veggies arrive alongside corn tacos and green rice for you to plate to your liking.  Piled into the fresh corn wraps, the final finish is full of smokey umami notes but guacamole or a creamy touch would have been welcome.

A side not to miss is the Tomato Salad (£8), not least with tomatoes now entering their full summer glory. Heirloom Tomatoes, Sesame Macha Sauce and Avocado, it’s proof that the simpler the better. 

Overall, the experience at Cavita is a treat.  Breezy, informed staff ferry squidgy pucks of pan de elote (corn cake) pudding; Mexican folk instrumentals burble away in the background.  Warm in all senses.  But somehow the setting feels more successful than the food itself. 

Cavita, 56-60 Wigmore Street, London WIU 2RZ

Website: cavitarestaurant.com

Rating: ***