A taste of Tulum has found its way to the King’s Road, an area much in need of a foodie reinvigoration, not least a Mexican-inspired one. Somewhat of a no-man’s land when it comes to any good restaurants, its founder Fraser Carruthers recognised this: ‘King’s Road has been missing something like this, so when the opportunity arose to open Ixchel, I leapt at the chance, as I have had my eye on the site for a while”. Guided by the culinary vision of Mexico-born head chef Ximena Gayosso Gonzalez, Ixchel fuses Mexican art and cuisine to bring an experience in the round. In Fraser’s words, “[k]eeping the vibe high, serving amazing food, great drinks with incredible music is what we are about.” On that note, the vibe reminded me of Wigmore Street’s Cavita, on which see my review here.
Named after the Mayan goddess of the moon and textiles, Ixchel is an aesthetic joy. Aptly, moon symbols can be seen throughout the contemporary space alongside warm brass accents and bespoke tiling. Varying textures add depth and intrigue: think soft curves, tactile fabics and playful murals. Very Tulum. With cacti tucked around hidden corners, the ground floor is bright with floor-to-ceiling windows (albeit fully draped), whilst the downstairs is home to a more moody bar that sees a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights.
Chef Gonzalez comes with an esteemed CV having working at the likes of Brat and Ella Canta. Now drawing inspiration from the Yucatan Peninsula, where habaneros are hot and fruity, the all-day tapas-style menu is a mix of Small Plates, Tacos and Quesedillas, Larger Plates and Sides. Crafted from locally sourced ingredients, there’s a good range of vegan dishes, showcasing the spice and flair of traditional Tulumnese recipes.
From the Small Plates, Guacamole (£9.50) was an obvious choice to get us going. Topped with pico de gallo, it was fresh and accompanied by some very moreish blue corn and yellow corn crunchy totops. Whilst the gauc was topped with a limey tomato salsa and with a mix of chunky and mashed avocado, had a nice textural contrast, it was a touch under-seasoned.
Alongside, came the Roasted hispi cabbage (£8), vibrant, smokey and visually striking. Though topped with a punchy salsa macha, the dish needed a vibrant sauce to bring it together and make it a whole. Sitting alone, the cabbage was a little dry.
From the tacos, I went for (very small) Cauliflower Taco (£13). Again, whilst finished with a raw tomatillo and pineapple salsa, this lacked the necessary acidity. A punchy salsa would also have been welcome to finish these (very) small tacos though those feature on the menu separately at a chilling £2.50!
Like the food menu, the drinks offering here is impressive. Downstairs sees a hidden tequila bar with one of the largest collections of agave-based liquor in Europe, boasting a diverse selection of premium tequilas and mezcals sourced directly from artisanal distilleries in Mexico.
Though a spicy margaritas is usually my go-to, on this occasion I was up for trying something new, fresh and Spring-like so went for the Sage margarita (£17). Fresh, delicate and grassy, this was subtle in flavour with a herby limey finish. I’ll probably stick to something more smokey, hot and citric next time – whether a Mezalcita or a Chilli one – but this light cocktail would be ideal to see in summer though on the pricey side.
With its beautiful interiors, buzzy atmosphere and friendly service, Ixchel has a lot of potential. The kitchen has tough competition when it comes to Mexican food in London, though, and the flavours could just do with a bit more maximising.
Ixchel, 33H King’s Rd, London SW3 4LX
Website: https://ixchellondon.com
Rating: ****
Yumtini 